Health Conditions A-Z Skin, Hair & Nail Conditions Retinoids: Types, Benefits, How To Use Correctly applying retinoids helps even out skin texture and tone, reduce signs of aging, and treat acne. By Madeleine Burry Madeleine Burry Madeleine Burry is a Brooklyn-based writer and editor, covering health, parenting, and wellness. She's written for many online publications, including Health, Prevention, Women's Health, What To Expect, and Apartment Therapy. health's editorial guidelines Updated on August 19, 2023 Medically reviewed by William Truswell, MD Medically reviewed by William Truswell, MD William Truswell, MD, FACS, operates his own cosmetic and reconstructive facial surgery practice. Dr. Truswell was the first in his area in Western Massachusetts to have an accredited private office surgical suite. learn more Retinoids, a vitamin A derivative, help even skin tone, smoothen fine lines and wrinkles, treat acne, and unclog pores. Dermatologists typically advise applying topical prescription retinoids at night after cleansing the skin, then following up with a moisturizer. Applying sunscreen every day is essential since retinoids often make the skin sensitive to the sun. There are several types of retinoids. Prescription oral retinoids treat severe acne. Topical retinoids available over the counter, such as retinol, are in a wide range of skincare products that reduce mild acne and signs of aging. Read on to learn about retinoids, how to use them in your skincare routine, and their possible risks. SrdjanPav / Getty Images What Are Retinoids? Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives, meaning they have similar functions and structures to vitamin A, which helps support skin health. Retinoids help treat health conditions and skin concerns like: AcnePsoriasis, which causes itchy, thick patches of red skin and silver scalesSkin agingSome cancers How Do They Work? Retinoids work by boosting collagen and increasing cell turnover. Collagen is a protein that makes up your bone, cartilage, and skin. Collagen decreases and rapidly breaks down as you age. As a result, you may show signs of aging, such as wrinkled skin. Retinoids have an anti-aging effect by increasing collagen production. Topical retinoids quickly remove dead skin cells and help produce new ones, which unclogs your pores. Oral retinoids help eliminate excess oils, which cause acne. Types of Retinoids Retinoids are available as prescription oral medications or topical creams, gels, and liquids. Some topical medications require a prescription, while others are available over the counter. Different types of retinoids treat various health conditions and skin concerns. Topical retinoids and what they treat include: Adapalene: Mild acne Alitretinoin: Kaposi's sarcoma, a type of cancer that causes the growth of abnormal purple or red lesions in the tissues that line the mouth, nose, and throat; in the lymph nodes; or under the skin Bexarotene: Cutaneous T-cell lymphoma, a type of blood cancer that affects the skin Retinol: Hyperpigmentation, keratosis pilaris (acne-like bumps on the skin), mild acne, and wrinkles Tazarotene: Mild acne and psoriasis Tretinoin: Hyperpigmentation, keratosis pilaris, mild acne, and wrinkles Isotretinoin is a prescription oral retinoid. Isotretinoin treats severe acne, such as cysts and nodules that are often large and painful. People usually take isotretinoin for four to five months, but some treatments may last shorter or longer than that. You may notice scars appear on your skin as your acne clears. Retinoids vs. Retinol Retinol is a topical retinoid available over the counter that helps even out skin texture and tone, get rid of wrinkles, and treat mild acne. Retinol is an ingredient in several skincare products. Retinol is weaker than prescription-strength retinoids. As a result, retinol usually takes longer to reduce signs of aging than other retinoids. The Main Benefits of Retinol Benefits of Retinoids Retinoids are often a staple in skincare routines because of their desirable effects on the skin. Namely, retinoids benefit the skin by clearing mild to severe acne, evening out irregular skin texture or tone, and preventing acne scars. Research has found that retinoids inhibit the growth of blemishes that form when dead skin cells and excess oils clog the pores. Retinoids also help reduce signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. A review published in 2020 examined 180 studies in which people used tretinoin for three to 24 months. The researchers found that tretinoin reduced signs of premature aging due to sun exposure in one month. The researchers found that tretinoin minimized skin concerns like: HyperpigmentationLiver spotsSallownessWrinkling How To Use Retinoids Use retinoids exactly as the instructs direct or a healthcare provider prescribes. Guidance for retinoids depends on whether you use oral or topical retinoids. Oral Retinoids Use isotretinoin as prescribed by a healthcare provider. Generally, people take isotretinoin two times daily for four to five months. Take isotretinoin after eating with a full glass of water. As with topical retinoids, you may notice that your acne worsens after starting isotretinoin. Acne typically clears over time and may improve after stopping treatment. Topical Retinoids A healthcare provider will likely advise starting with a low-strength retinoid to avoid irritating your skin. They may instruct you to apply the retinoid every other night, then slowly build up to applying it nightly.To use topical retinoids: With clean hands, wash your face with a gentle cleanser and water. Gently pat your skin dry. Wait 20–30 minutes to ensure your skin is completely dry. Apply the retinoid to the affected area as directed by a healthcare provider of the instructions. Cover the entire affected area. For example, apply the retinoid to your entire face rather than spot-treating acne or areas of uneven skin texture or tone. Follow up with a creamy, rich moisturizer to counteract any dryness. It's normal for acne to worsen during the first week to 10 days of topical retinoids, known as "skin purging." Do not stop using topical retinoids if your acne worsens. Acne typically starts to clear within two to three weeks if you regularly use topical retinoids. Topical retinoids are photolabile, which means that light can inactivate them. Make sure you apply retinoids at night since sunlight can weaken them, Shari Lipner, MD, PhD, an associate professor of clinical dermatology at Weill Cornell Medicine, told Health. Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun than usual, Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist based in Los Angeles, told Health. To avoid sun damage, only apply topical retinoids at night and use a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 daily. Risks and Safety Tips Topical retinoids are generally safe, but some people may need to avoid them. For example, topical retinoids may irritate your skin if you are prone to dry skin or have skin allergies. Talk to a dermatologist before adding a retinoid to your skincare routine if your acne worsens around your period. Your acne may be hormone-related if you have other symptoms, such as abnormal hair growth. Do not use retinoids if you are planning to become pregnant or are already expecting, said Dr. Lipner. Retinoids can transfer to the fetus prenatally through the placenta and postnatally through breast milk. Retinoids increase the risk of fetal retinoid syndrome, which may cause physical birth defects like: Ear and eye abnormalitiesGrowth delayHeart defects Laser hair removal and waxing target the top layer of skin, which can become fragile when using retinoids. As a result, hair removal treatments increase the risk of burns and irritation. "[A] dermatologist may advise you to stop using your retinoid before waxing or laser procedures," noted Dr. Lipner. Side Effects Topical retinoids may cause side effects, such as: Changes in skin toneDry skinItchingRednessScaling of the skinSkin that blisters, crusts, or swellsSkin that feels warm or stings Some of the most common side effects of oral retinoids may include: Changes in skin toneCuts and sores that heal slower than usualDry skin near your eyes, mouth, and noseFatigueFlushing or sweatingHair growth or lossNosebleedsSkin peeling, especially on your palms and the soles of your feetSwollen gums that bleedVoice changes Skincare Products To Avoid Skincare products, including drying agents and exfoliants, may adversely interact with retinoids and irritate your skin. "It is best to avoid other drying agents when using retinoids such as toners, astringents, and medicated cleansers. These products cause further irritation," said Dr. Lipner. Retinoids exfoliate your skin and unclog your pores. Adding another powerful exfoliant, such as an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), on top of a retinoid leaves your skin raw, said Dr. Shamban. A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), commonly known as salicylic acid, poorly mixes with retinoids, too, Debra Jaliman, MD, an assistant professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, told Health. You can still use exfoliants, but stagger their use and reduce how much you manually exfoliate, noted Dr. Jaliman. For example, use exfoliants in the morning and retinoids at night. You may try using a vitamin C serum instead of an exfoliant, advised Dr. Shamban: "It will both penetrate better and reduce the chance of irritation." Exfoliating your skin too much may increase your risk of skin damage by making your skin sensitive to the sun. Apply sunscreen daily to reduce your risk of premature aging and skin cancer if you use an exfoliant, retinoid, or vitamin C serum. Anti-Aging Skincare Products You Should Have in Your Routine, According to Dermatologists A Quick Review Retinoids accelerate your body's natural process of getting rid of dead skin cells, which helps treat acne. Use retinoids cautiously, as they may interact with other skincare products and irritate your skin. Apply sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 daily and use a moisturizer to prevent sun damage and dryness. Consult a dermatologist if you still have concerns or questions about retinoids or other skincare products. Was this page helpful? Thanks for your feedback! Tell us why! Other Submit 18 Sources Health.com uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy. MedlinePlus. Tretinoin topical. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Retinoid or retinol?. MedlinePlus. Vitamin A. American Osteopathic College of Dermatology. Retinoids, topical. Motamedi M, Chehade A, Sanghera R, et al. A clinician's guide to topical retinoids. J Cutan Med Surg. 2022;26(1):71-78. doi:10.1177/12034754211035091 MedlinePlus. Psoriasis. Al-Atif H. Collagen supplements for aging and wrinkles: A paradigm shift in the fields of dermatology and cosmetics. Dermatol Pract Concept. 2022;12(1):e2022018. doi:10.5826/dpc.1201a18 MedlinePlus. Isotretinoin. MedlinePlus. Kaposi sarcoma. Pulitzer M. Cutaneous T-cell lymphoma. Clin Lab Med. 2017;37(3):527-546. doi:10.1016/j.cll.2017.06.006 American Academy of Dermatology Association. Isotretinoin: Overview. Leyden J, Stein-Gold L, Weiss J. Why topical retinoids are mainstay of therapy for acne. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2017;7(3):293-304. doi:10.1007/s13555-017-0185-2 Milosheska D, Roškar R. Use of retinoids in topical antiaging treatments: A focused review of clinical evidence for conventional and nanoformulations. Adv Ther. 2022;39(12):5351-5375. doi:10.1007/s12325-022-02319-7 Sitohang IBS, Makes WI, Sandora N, et al. Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trials. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2022;8(1):e003. doi:10.1097/JW9.0000000000000003 Leung AK, Barankin B, Lam JM, et al. Dermatology: How to manage acne vulgaris. Drugs Context. 2021;10:2021-8-6. doi:10.7573/dic.2021-8-6 Food and Drug Administration. Sunscreen: How to help protect your skin from the sun. Bastos Maia S, Rolland Souza AS, Costa Caminha MF, et al. Vitamin A and pregnancy: A narrative review. Nutrients. 2019;11(3):681. doi:10.3390/nu11030681 Genetic and Rare Diseases Information Center. Fetal retinoid syndrome.